Up at 0600, we’re going out to our old combat zone today. By sunup we’re already in the mountains passing places I can dimly recognize from combat 40 years ago. One never forgets what the ground looks like but all the trees have returned after defoliation from Agent Orange and the place doesn’t look like a war zone any longer, thank goodness. These are high and heavily forested mountains, much like our Smoky Mountains and there are lots of them – our road out is curvy but now paved, unlike the days when we patrolled and cleared ambushes on the same road. After 30 miles, the road empties out into the AShau Valley at the small village of ALuoi -ALuoi is the scene of the infamous Hamburger Hill fight in 1969. Three battalions of the 101st Airborne and a 1st ARVN Division battalion surrounded a North Vietnamese regiment located on a small mountain named ApBia. Over a 2 week period the paratroopers assaulted 11 successive times until ApBia was taken. The combat was brutal even by jungle standards with heavy casualties and there were no prisoners of the original regimental strength of over 1000 N Vietnamese soldiers. The first picture shows you what it looked like then. Today the hilltop is a shrine and our guides have to obtain special permission to visit, apparently only given to returning American war veterans. From the parking lot to the top is over a mile with steps most of the way. I had forgotten the agony of walking up these mountains on slick clay with 90 lbs on my back, but quickly remembered why the Army only wants 20 year olds for wars. On the top we find the shrine built in the Vietnamese style with Russian/Soviet writing about the gallant defense of the hilltop against the “America-Quislings” - which I don't quite understand since it refers to a WWII Norwegian turncoat. We can still see craters from 40+ years ago filled with slimy green water. I’m glad I saw it but I won’t be back this way, twice is enough....too many ghosts here.
The inscription on the plaque in the hilltop shrine literally translated as follows:
A Monumental Stele
A Victorious Place at A Bia Hill Airport
From May to September 1969, this is the place where our soldiers and people bravely fought, defeated America-Quisling's raids, wiped out many enemy Army groups, contributed to our country's victory in the resistance war against America.
This place has become America's obsession.
A Bia victory and our warriors and people's sacrifice is forever known by our country's people and friends all over the world as exploits and a symbol of Vietnamese people's patriotism and independence will.
People's Committee of A Luoi District January 2009
On to KheSanh, some 90 Km north.
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